Day 26: Spearfish, SD to Hill City, SD

Jacob Usher

Our alarms went off at 6:30 this morning and we could hear a light rain on our tents. Brian called out asking if we wanted to sleep in another hour to see if the rain would stop. The rain seemed to stop pretty quickly but we made absolutely no movement until the alarms went off again. 

We packed up and were eating breakfast under a covered pavilion when it started to rain again. We decided it would be safer and warmer to wait for the rain to pass. I was a little antsy about not making progress in the morning, but riding in the rain would have sucked. I used this time to read the new map. I learned about how the actual name of Devil’s Tower translates to Bear Lodge and about the Spearfish Canyon we would be cycling through in the afternoon.

The crew waits out a cold morning rainstorm in Spearfish, SD

During this time we met the Spearfish man. A friendly local who seemed to be living out of a shopping cart. He told us about how he once bike toured and we watched him cook pancakes over a butane torch. 

We said bye and headed towards the Spearfish Canyon at a little before 1pm. It was pretty wet and damp, but I was hoping the climb would warm us up quickly. We took a quick stop at Dave’s Rock Shop in Cheyenne Crossing before starting onto our first of two steeper climbs. These were a little bigger than I expected, but the stretch between the two was actually rolling hills and very pleasant.

Spearfish Canyon itself was very cool with tall cliffs of different color rocks. There were also plenty of caves dotting the walls if you looked closely. I wondered why the Black Hills were named as such. Today’s overcast and rainy weather made it clear why. Technically Dark Green Hills may be a more accurate name, but Black Hills sounds cooler. What I’m saying is there were a lot of ponderosa pines.

Spearfish Canyon in the Black Hills National Forest

We got onto a rails to trails bike path at the top of the second climb. This path has the wonderful max grade of 4%. Shout out to trains. While the scenery was beautiful, I was most excited about the lovely gentle grades on the smooth gravel path. We spent the rest of the evening with 30 miles of down then up then down again. We went through 4 tunnels and over many bridges. The only downside of this was we were freezing most of the time. The high in Hill City, where we’re staying tonight, is only 53 degrees today and the sun was setting on us. 

The Mickleson Bike Trail

When we got to town we realized the grocery store closed in 3 minutes. This gave us an excuse to eat at a restaurant. It was already past 8 and I had been craving pizza all afternoon so I was secretly pretty happy the grocery store closed. After dinner we rode about a mile in the dark to our campsite. This was our first night riding of the trip, but we kept it pretty short. Starting the day so late makes it feel a lot longer than it really was. Today wasn’t particularly hard, but it felt like a big day because of that and the cold. However, it was very scenic and I think everyone had fun!

Friend and Usher recover from a cold day at Mangiamo Pizza in Hill City, SD

Day 25: Devils Tower, WY to Spearfish, SD

Brian Richardson

On this trip we are following a series of Adventure Cycling Association maps. That is, physical paper maps—not an app on a phone or bike computer. I chose to use these maps partly out of nostalgia (we used similar maps on my previous trips), but also because they are just excellent resources. They have turn-by-turn directions, elevation profiles, road and traffic conditions, services (food, water, camping, bike shops, etc.), and weather patterns. Even after all that, they dedicate about a third of their printed area to describing the ecology, geography, and history of the regions they cover.

Each map covers between 300 and 600 miles, or 4-7 days of riding. So a completed map is a milestone to be celebrated. The old map goes back in to my gallon-sized ziplock bag with the others, and we pull out the next one to see what’s in store for us in the week to come. Two days ago in Gillette, we cracked open a new map that will guide us 380 miles to Midland, SD. It detailed the geologic and cultural significance of the Black Hills and warned of 70-mile stretches with no services as well as frequent thunderstorms and tornadoes.

Map #2 of the Parks, Peaks, and Prairies Route

This morning, our map sent us along HW 24 away from Devils Tower and through the cute town of Hulett, WY where we stocked up on food for the day. By late morning, we saw warning signs of the thunderstorms the map had warned us about. We spent the next 2 hours weaving between storm cells and racing the larger system of dark clouds to shelter at the town of Beulah. Arriving just in time, we were able to enjoy a dry lunch under a tin roof as the storm passed over us.

The group races storm clouds to Beulah, WY

Lunch out of the rain in Beulah, WY

With the rain behind us, we continued on to Old Highway 14, which sidles up to Interstate 90. A few quiet miles on this road got us to the eastern border of Wyoming, where we were hoping to take a picture at a “Welcome to South Dakota” sign. Unfortunately, no such sign exists on Old HW 14. I guess someone figured the nearby large and colorful sign along I-90 was good enough. We briefly contemplated jumping a barbed wire fence and playing Frogger across interstate traffic to take a picture, but ultimately decided this was not worth the risk. At least most of us did…

Friend at the South Dakota Border

We’re spending our first night in our fifth state in Spearfish, SD, right on the edge of the Black Hills National Forest. Our first stop in town was to the local bike shop, Rushmore Bikes, for some important repairs. Michael added a pair of miniature aerobars to his Kona Sutra, and Usher had his persistently squeaky drive train professionally looked at. I was finally able to replace my headset bearings. Like a frog in a heated kettle I had fallen into a literal groove of riding on worn bearings over the last several thousand miles on this bike, and it feels much smoother with the new hardware.

Brian’s old headset bearings outside Rushmore Bikes in Spearfish, SD

We’ve been to a lot of bike shops so far, and while most of them have been great, Rushmore Bikes stands out as amazing. Both mechanics on duty set aside their current tasks to give us quick and thorough help. They asked several times if they could assist us in any other way, even offering to drive any parts or equipment we’d need to our campsite tonight. Maybe this is just our first taste of midwestern kindness, in which case I’m looking forward to the next several weeks!

Day 24: Gillette, WY to Devils Tower, WY

Jacob Friend

Three days ago we biked a century. 2 days ago we did over 7,000 feet of climbing. Yesterday we biked another 97 miles. Today we took it chill.

When planning our route through Wyoming we knew there was going to be a difficult stretch due to sparse population and the mountainous Big Horn Range. I’m proud of us for rising to the challenge, but it was time to give our bodies a break. Our alarms went off at 8:30am, about 2 hours of extra sleep compared to a normal day. Instead of waking up feeling like adventure cyclists, we felt more like zombies—gloomy, tired, and slow. Our feet were dragging along the campsite somewhat dreading today’s saddle time.

Before getting back on the road, we made a pit stop at the local bike shop to stock up on bike tubes, patch kits, and stove fuel. Inflated tires and spare tubes gave us the morale boost we needed to kickstart our morning. After a slow start we were en route to Devils Tower around 11:30am.

The Bicycle Shop in Gillette, WY

Gillette, WY prides itself in being the “energy capital of the world” and oversees an extensive network of coal mines. As we left town we got to bike past hundreds of BNSF trains that were being prepped to transport coal all across the country. Between the coal mines, trains, and factories, we had good eye candy to start the ride.

Friend and Usher ride by the train tracks outside of Gillette, WY

After passing the last of the trains, our enjoyment of biking through Gillette quickly faded. We were left with semi trucks and roads under construction to navigate with minimal views of the Wyoming landscape. Fortunately, we were biking with a good pace that carried us out of Gillette and into Moorcroft where we stopped for groceries and lunch.

Michael helps Usher with a squeaky drive train

From Moorcroft to Devils Tower we had a little under 40 miles of biking. While our bodies were still not 100%, we made good time finishing out the ride as we listened to songs about coal (e.g. North Country Blues by Bob Dylan) and a playlist of Rick Rubin’s best songs he has produced (shoutout my mom for the recommendation). We’re always looking for cool tunes to listen to while riding, so feel free to send us recommendations 🙂

Once we arrived to Devils Tower we were astonished by the famous butte and the surrounding red sandstone cliffs. As Brian mentioned before, the hidden gems of this trip stand out as some of the greatest highlights. Just two days ago I didn’t know what Devils Tower was and now I’m fortunate enough to be camping a stone’s throw away from it.

The approach to Devils Tower, WY

Brian and I took a short hike to the base of the butte while Michael and Usher decided to get some extra rest at the campsite. Here are a few fun facts about Devils Tower:

Devils Tower National Monument was the first United States national monument established on September 24, 1906, by Theodore Roosevelt.

The tower is a popular climbing spot, but it’s also sacred to several Plains tribes. After deliberation there now exists a voluntary climbing ban during the month of June when the tribes are conducting ceremonies around the monument.

There are a ton of prairie dogs here.

Devils Tower and nearby prairie dogs

I’m glad we could have a shorter day and enjoy another beautiful campsite. Today is our last full day in Wyoming and I’ll sure miss it! See you soon South Dakota 💗

Day 23: Buffalo, WY to Gillette, WY

Michael Richardson

Today was a looong day. Our longest day yet. Not by distance—although we did manage almost 100 miles again—but by sheer time in the saddle. We spent just under 9 hours on the bike. We were fortunate that a cold front followed us into Buffalo last night, and finally gave us a break from the blistering heat. It was also refreshing to see so much greenery on this side of the Rockies and the sight reminded me of home. From dawn till dusk, there was a fierce wind coming down from the north, and because our route diverged from the interstate, we got to experience it as a headwind, a crosswind, and finally a tailwind. About 30 miles spent with each.

Lots of greenery on the ride NNE out of Buffalo, WY

Since visiting the bike shop in Cody, we’ve had a few more flat tires and exhausted our supply of spare tubes. This morning, we set out for Gillette, crossing our fingers we’d survive just one more day until reaching the next shop. Not 45 minutes into the ride, Friend was pulling over to address his sixth flat tire. We’ve started calling him OfficeMax, because of how many staples he manages to pick up each week. With no spare tubes, we resorted to patch kits and electrical tape to hold things together, but the paranoia of more flats didn’t leave us until Gillette was squarely in our sights.

Friend fixes his sixth flat of the trip

The only place we saw on the map to refill water was a bar about 40 miles into our 96-mile day. When we got there, a little girl was playing peekaboo behind the screen door and holding what appeared to be a stuffed animal. Upon closer inspection, we realized it was no stuffed animal at all, but rather a kitten—not even a month old. The owners of the bar were raising six kittens in total and we got to play with them as we sipped our chocolate milk.

The Leiter Bar, and two of its kittens, in Leiter, WY

Another note from our beloved map was about a section we rode through right after lunch. It warned us of the dwindling shoulder along this part of the road, but told us not to worry because we would see more Pronghorns than vehicles way out here. Game on. I counted each vehicle that passed us by and between the four of us, I’m confident we spotted every one of those speed-goats bounding through the countryside. It was an extremely close game, switching back and forth many times, tied at the half, but in the end vehicles took the lead; 78-74.

Pronghorn Antelope—the fastest North American mammal—off of HW 16

Since the others have talked about their bike setups, I will take a moment to do the same. The bicycle I’m riding is a Kona Sutra, almost entirely stock. If Brian’s bike is a cast iron skillet, mine is more like enameled cast iron. Slightly easier to maintain and comes in a cool color. It’s got a 2x (“two-by”) drivetrain, disc brakes (cable, not hydraulic),  road style shifters, and all the mounting points you could ever need. Like the others, I’m rocking a Brooks B-17 saddle and Ortlieb panniers in the back. My absolute favorite part of the Sutra, however, is the set of Schwalbe Marathon tires. These tires are famous for bicycle touring and their durability. I’ve heard stories of folks putting 10-15k miles on these bad boys without ever getting a flat and so far so good (knock on wood).

Michael’s touring setup

I have a couple bags on my handlebars and one inside the frame to store snacks and other easy-access equipment. I’m pretty particular about things having a designated spot on my bike and I make sure to pack up the same way every time. This helps me stay organized and ready for anything that comes our way—mechanicals, thunderstorms, or just the munchies. It’s also nice when things are put away because it gives me room in the back seat if I need to stretch my legs during a long day.

Michael stretches his legs from the back seat of his Kona Sutra bike

Day 22: Ten Sleep, WY to Buffalo, WY

Jacob Usher

We started the day with a flat section of road. That was very brief. We then followed Highway 16 into the Ten Sleep Canyon. Steep limestone cliffs and shallow grassy hills at the bottom were shaped by the last ice age thousands of years ago. Apparently this is a popular climbing area so I was keeping an eye out for any signs of climbing activity such as bolts or sprinter vans. 

Friend leaves our camp at the Ten Sleep Brewery to head up Highway 16–only wearing his cycling bibs

Instead of climbing routes, I spotted a sign pointing out a memorial on the top of the canyon rim. A 10 foot wide marble block commemorating an Englishman who fell 100 feet while hunting. I wondered what other kinds of memorials like that have been undocumented or forgotten.

Leigh Creek Monument

The climb up Powder Pass would take us up to 9,666 feet and over the Bighorn mountain range: the high point of our trip. This was nearly a vertical mile of climbing. The past three weeks prepared us physically for this giant climb and we went up it in good spirits. When we are on a long climb and the roads feel safe, we will split up and meet at the top. This is nice because everyone can go at their own pace and enjoy a little alone time.

Switchbacks on Powder River Pass

We reached the top of the pass one by one. Even the growing headwind couldn’t stop us. We stopped and took in the scenery of the high point of our trip. We had mentally prepared ourselves for this first half of the day and it went great.

Michael and Friend at the top of Powder River Pass, elevation 9,666 ft

The rest of the day was a breeze and we arrived in Buffalo in no time.

Just kidding. “Ten miles of ‘rolling hills,’ then a descent to Buffalo,” said Brian. We rode downhill for a couple of miles in penny sized hail. The first rolling hill turned out to be another steep 30 minute climb. This time we were not as mentally prepared. After that we found ourselves on a roller coaster of five 8% grades up and down.

Hailstorm and ‘rolling hills’ along the descent from the Bighorn Mountains

The final descent into Buffalo, WY

Evidence of Friend’s bibs-only battle with Powder River Pass

Now for my bike setup!

I am riding a Soma Doublecross, which is the same bike as Friend’s. This is a cyclocross bike but it also does the trick for touring. Like Friend, I bought my bike from Facebook marketplace. It has many quirks such as a Brooks Saddle on a carbon fiber racing seat post and a mountain biking derailer with ‘more clicks than cogs’ on my cassette.

My gear setup is probably the most different from the rest of the group. My panniers were graduation gifts (thank you Rachel!) and are smaller than everyone else’s. I fit my tent, sleep system, clothes, and food into these. I also have a frame bag and a handle bar bag to add a little extra storage capacity. On day three, I turned the handlebar bag into a giant saddlebag. This was for multiple reasons, but it has been more comfortable. I put random small items in these. Also lots of food. I always keep lots of snacks stashed all over my bike. This is great except for our stint through bear country where I had to carefully unpack all the goodies to store them safely. 

Usher’s bike setup

Day 21: Cody, WY to Ten Sleep, WY

Brian Richardson

A hundred miles to the east of Cody, across a wide dry basin, are Wyoming’s Bighorn Mountains; this range presents our highest pass in the Rockies. Because of the sparsely placed towns in the Bighorn Basin, our options for today’s ride were to make it halfway across, leaving a monster climb for tomorrow afternoon, or to do a full century. Fueled by the best breakfast I’ve had all summer, the choice was clear to me.

Michael and Usher sit down to a delicious breakfast prepared by John and Brenda: waffles, scrambled eggs from the backyard chickens, fresh berries, homemade whipped cream, homemade rhubarb jam, …

Just a few minutes into the ride, we could already see the Bighorn range on the horizon. Its snowcapped peaks could almost be mistaken for stratus clouds. Throughout the day, the mountains would grow and come into focus, and we’d get a better picture of the climb in store for us tomorrow.

Friend heads out across the Bighorn Basin

According to John, when Buffalo Bill Cody laid out the plans for the town of Cody, he wanted the roads to be wide enough for horse-drawn wagons to be able to do a U-turn without waiting for a pullout. Today, these wide roads allow for excellent bike lanes. For most of the morning we had a six-foot shoulder—wide enough for us to comfortably ride in a 2x2 formation.

The wide shoulders around Cody were not entirely free of hazards

With generally flatter terrain than we’ve had so far this summer, we made good time for the first 40 miles, even after two flat tires. By midday, however, the UV index had reached a top-of-the-ear-blistering 11, and shade was hard to come by. We stopped frequently throughout the afternoon to drink water and apply and re-apply SPF 100 sunscreen.

Friend notices a flat in his rear tire

Friend hides in the only available shade while Usher addresses a flat tire

Throughout this trip, we’ll visit many well known areas that are destinations in and of themselves; last week we saw Yellowstone and soon we’ll see the Black Hills and Badlands. These sections are exciting to me and tend to live up to the hype, but I especially love seeing special places that I would never otherwise think to visit. The Bighorn Basin is one of these gems. Through the sweat and sunscreen, we made out some truly beautiful scenery and fauna today.

Scenes from the Bighorn Basin

We arrived at our destination of Ten Sleep, WY to find that the cheapest camping option is behind the Ten Sleep Brewery. In recent years, the surrounding area has become a mecca for summer rock climbing, and this brewery—like our Smith Rock campsite in Terrebone, OR— houses most of the climbers during the summer. Luckily for us, the brewery also had pizza and live music tonight. After setting up camp and taking some much needed showers, we enjoyed the bluegrass jam band “Shot in the Foot,” and met some lovely Wyoming people.

Shot in the Foot plays outside the Ten Sleep Brewery

In yesterday’s post, Friend discussed his bike and touring gear. I’ll do the same here for mine.

I’m riding a Surly Long Haul Trucker. As the name suggests, it’s built for the long haul, and it almost everywhere sacrifices being lightweight for being sturdy. It has a steel frame, low bottom bracket, long chainstay, and 26” wheels. I think of it as the cast iron skillet of bikes: heavy and old-fashioned, but with proper care and lubrication able to last a lifetime.

The bike is on its third trip across the country and has well over 10,000 miles on it. At this point most of the components have been replaced at least once.

My favorite additions and accessories include: Ortlieb rear panniers, a brooks saddle, aerobars, front and rear fenders, and most recently a small handlebar bag.

My trusty steed

Day 20: Cody, WY

Jacob Friend

Over the past 2 days, our team has crushed about 190 miles of biking through beautiful but exhausting mountains. It came as a great relief to our legs that the only climbing we did this morning was up a few stairs to a delicious homemade breakfast. While enjoying our food we plotted with our hosts about our plan to explore Cody for our rest day. Fortunately for us, our host John is a history buff and gave us the full rundown of the history of Cody and what spots to hit during our journey downtown. At the top of our itinerary was the Buffalo Bill Center of the West, a museum that contains 5 unique museums in a single building. Perfect. After scarfing down bagels, eggs, antelope sausage, and yogurt, we were off to downtown Cody.

Brian rides into downtown Cody with his croc backstraps in break-day mode

Aside from resting our minds and bodies on break days, a big focus of this precious free time is on bike maintenance. We’re at day 20, and while things have run relatively smoothly so far for our bikes, there’s always work to be done. Before heading to the museum, the gang stopped at the local bike shop—Joyvagen Cycles. We had two primary goals for our visit to the shop. First, Brian wanted to get his headset looked at because of a worn out bearing. Second, I wanted to have key hardware replaced on my rear rack. The rear rack is responsible for holding both my panniers, so it plays a critical role in the success of my riding. Unfortunately, on the very first day of our trip my rear rack broke off from its attachments to my frame and I’ve been working to get it repaired ever since. My fingers were crossed that today would be a step towards a more secure solution for the rest of the trip. Brian and I were asked to leave our bikes while they were being worked on, so our Cody adventure continued as we got lunch then hit the museum.

Joyvagen Cycles in Cody, WY

Once again John and Brenda came in clutch and got all four of us free tickets to the museum. Our first line of business was to hit the Draper Natural History Museum. The exhibits in this section focused on the ecosystem of Yellowstone National Park. It was awesome to reflect upon all of the cool critters and terrain we had just seen on our bike ride. Learning new facts about the environment made me realize how much I don’t know about natural history. This only grew my desire to bike more and embark on cool adventures in unfamiliar places. After roaming around the museum for a bit we caught the afternoon Raptor Experience exhibit. This featured close-up interactions with exotic birds that were under the supervision of researchers due to injuries preventing them from living in the wild. We had a great time learning about the birds through a silly trivia game, Fact or Fowl, while also learning about the importance of conservation and sustainable practices. At the end of the exhibit, Brian and I received phone calls from Joyvagen Cycles that our bikes had been repaired and were ready to be picked up. Perfect timing 🙂

Buffalo Bill Center of the West, featuring a golden eagle with a 7-foot wingspan

We were happy to see that our repairs went pretty well. While they weren’t permanent solutions, we both got fixes that will allow our bikes to ride more smoothly and safely for now. The screws and bolts on my rear rack bars were replaced and sealed with Loctite glue for added strength. No more elastic strap holding the rack to my frame… for now. Downtown Cody was great fun, but now it was time to get home and continue bike maintenance and preparation for the week ahead. A big item on my to-do list for the day was to replace my rear tire. I have had 4 flat tires so far this trip (all from my rear tire) and after enough troubleshooting I conceded that it was time to replace my tire. For some finishing touches each of us degreased our chains, cogs, and cassettes to strip away the dirt we’ve collected over the last few weeks.

Break day bike maintenance in Cody, WY

Last December I purchased my bike from Facebook Marketplace, a great affordable option. The previous owner used the bike to tour from San Diego to Virginia, so I’m confident it can get the job done for this trip, but it’s clear that a few thousand miles have been put on this bad boy. My two major issues thus far have been my rear tire and rear rack. It was reassuring to work on these components and I’m excited to see how the bike rides for the next week through the challenging Wyoming terrain. Bike maintenance isn’t my strong suit, but the rest of the group has been very supportive in helping me address issues throughout the trip. In just a few weeks I feel like I’ve gained more confidence in fixing problems as they arise and I’m starting to enjoy the process more.

We got a request from Sallie Verner to talk about our bike setups more in the blog and this was my go at it. (Great request by the way! Let us know if there is anything else y’all want us to blog about). The rest of the group will go into detail about their bikes in future posts.

To end this blog I’ll give you a rundown of some of my bike specs (I don’t know what most of this means 😅):

  • Size: 54 frame (not certain)

  • Frame: Prestige Cro-mo steel, stand over height 30-31” depending on tire choice.

  • Has eyelets for down-tube shifting and lots of mounts for racks and bags

  • Fork: Carbon, Room for tires 38mm wide and maybe 40?

  • Drivetrain: Campagnolo Mirage 3x9

  • Cranks: Bontrager Aluminum

  • Pedals: Shimano PD-EH500 SPD Sport Road Pedals

  • Wheels: 700 Fulcrum Racing 7, Aluminum, (ETRTO 622x15C)

  • Front Tire: 700x35 Schwalbe Road Cruiser w/ Kevlar puncture resistance

  • Rear Tire: 700x35 Specialized Nimbus w/ Armadillo Protection

  • Bar: Carbon, 440 mm. width

  • Brakes: Campagnolo Veloce, Cantilever rim brakes

  • Fenders: Silver, lightweight plastic

  • Panniers: 2x 20L Ortlieb Waterproof

  • Handlebar bag: Ortlieb Ultimate Six Classic

  • Handlebar mirror: Mirrycle Mirrors Mountain Mirror

Friend’s touring bike setup

Day 19: Yellowstone Lake, WY to Cody, WY

Michael Richardson

This morning, we awoke to frozen helmets and dew dripping from our tents. It got down into the 30s last night but as Usher mentioned in the previous post, we felt nice and cozy in the tent village between kind-spirited neighbors. Another consequence of the cold was that I got to try my new favorite candy—Charleston Chew—in its more toothsome, frozen form. Yes, I had candy for breakfast this morning. While our helmets finished thawing, we tried our best to shake the hurt from our legs, but as I always say—“there’s nothin’ to it but to do it”—so we got to pedaling.

Morning frost on Usher’s bike at our Yellowstone Lake campground

I had almost forgotten we were still in Yellowstone when we passed another series of fumaroles, filling our nostrils with sulfur dioxide. I was more than happy to endure the smell in exchange for the incredible view we got around Yellowstone Lake—and I can’t say I’m too proud of my scent either these days. We passed a few more bison and marmots before turning a corner into telephoto terminus. There were probably 100 people parked along either side of the road and after triangulating their camera lenses, we spotted it—a Grizzly bear. Two of ‘em in fact! We watched them strut along the hillside for a little while and then carried on. In addition to the wildlife, we’ve been incredibly lucky with the fair weather throughout the park. A ranger told us about a biker who came through just two weeks ago and nearly froze in the wind and snow.

Michael rides by a fumarole along Yellowstone Lake

‘Telephoto terminal’ in Yellowstone National Park

After a steep climb up from the lake (8,500’), we double checked our straps and launched into our favorite downhill of the trip (we say that every time). Twelve minutes of uninterrupted momentum took us from snowy peaks all the way down to craggy pine tree glades. Even better was the crenelated stone wall guiding us down the pass—far more scenic than your typical metal guardrail.

Michael approaches the Sylvan Pass descent

We reconvened at the bottom and exited the park as a group. I’ll definitely be coming back soon to see Old Faithful and to find those elusive moose we’ve been hearing about. Just outside the park, we stepped into Pahaska Tepee for some chocolate milk and to ask what we should do in Cody for our rest day. Funny enough, they told us the exact same thing our Warm Showers host did—“you gotta see the nightly rodeo and the Buffalo Bill Museum!” More on that later.

Pit stop in Pahaska Tepee, just East of the Park

Not fifteen minutes down the road, the landscape changed again and we were staring up at the Absaroka Mountains. We were entranced by the steep, volcanic spires and the red hue that seemed to glow from the landscape. So many cool cracks and crevices too, I couldn’t help but think about all the climbing routes packed into this valley.

The group rides through the Shoshone National Forest (nearby Absaroka Range not pictured)

The remaining 30 miles after lunch were spent battling a headwind and UV index of 10 but at least the hills were behind us. I’m always keeping track of what items make it into my small handlebar bag for the day because that is prime real estate on the bike. Some days it’s winter gloves or my knee band. Today it was SPF 100 sunscreen and my last two tortillas.

Michael leads the group through a relentless headwind along the Buffalo Bill Reservoir

Our host in Cody warned us about a series of tunnels just before reaching town that could be dangerous for cyclists and suggested we talk to the Buffalo Bill Dam Visitor Center about a detour. They knew right away what we were after and opened the gates to a service road through the canyon. With no cars to worry about, I followed Usher in full confidence through the winding turns and mini tunnel just below the dam. Easily one of the most dramatic miles I’ve pedaled on a bicycle.

The HW 14 tunnel versus the secret canyon bypass

At the edge of Cody, we passed an arena with a big sign that read “RODEO EVERY NITE: JUNE, JULY, AUG”. We leave town May 31st. We drowned our sorrows in some tasty Mexican food before realizing we had 6 miles left to make it to our host. In pain, either from full stomachs or laughter, we trudged up the hills out of town and were greeted by John and Brenda. John is a seasoned bicycle tourist and is generous enough to host about ten groups every year that pass through Cody. They showed us to our guest suite, complete with showers, beds, and chickens roaming the backyard. If there was such thing as a six-star hotel, in my mind this would be it. Looking forward to fresh eggs for breakfast and exploring downtown Cody tomorrow!

Day 18: West Fork, MT to Yellowstone Lake, WY

Jacob Usher

What a day!

We hit 100 miles, 8000 feet, an 8% climb, reached Wyoming, and completed our section of the TransAmerica Trail! Now we begin Parks, Peaks, and Prairies.

Michael stretches and Usher drains his legs before a big day

We began our ride towards Yellowstone listening to rock on Friend’s speaker. We listened to Kickstart my Heart as we rode towards battle (Yellowstone tourism traffic). We passed by the very scenic Earthquake Lake along the way. This was formed by a landslide during a 7.5 magnitude earthquake.

Earthquake Lake (notice the dead trees poking out of the water)

Our ride along the lake was very pleasant with low traffic. We thought West Yellowstone (our first destination and resupply for the day) was only 20 miles away but it turned out to be 35. I wasn’t complaining because it meant we were knocking out a larger chunk of the day in the morning.

We met another cyclist in West Yellowstone riding from Astoria to Key West! Scott will also be on Parks, Peaks, and Prairies with us.

Scott, a fellow bike traveler, in West Yellowstone, MT

After a quick snack and resupply, we headed into Yellowstone National Park. This is something I have been looking forward to for as long as this trip has been an idea. We were a little apprehensive about traffic and wildlife, but more excited about the beautiful ride ahead of us. We hit the Wyoming state line pretty quickly before continuing.

Bike Loud enters their fourth state

We passed lots of geothermal pools and stopped at sights along the way. Traffic wasn’t too bad and people were being pretty respectful. We passed Gibbons Falls and thought about eating lunch. No picnic tables to be found so we just took in the view.

Terrace Spring and Gibbons Falls in Yellowstone National Park

Traffic increased as we continued into the afternoon. We decided to eat lunch at the Norris Geyser area. We climbed more and more and the landscape became more open fields with rivers and creeks. We scanned for wildlife and saw Bison. No moose (meese?) or bears though to my disappointment.

The group dodges both cars and bison while riding through the park

At the Geyser area, we couldn’t find tables, benches, or a good water source. Only an overburdened bathroom. An interesting thing about Yellowstone is how car-centric it is. There are a lot of sights to see that you drive around and pull off the road for. This is unlike other National Parks I’ve been to where I might park at a trailhead for an entire day. I felt almost as if we were sights in the park instead of visitors.

After eating, we joined the crowds of people to see all the geothermal vents and geysers. I saw Steamboat Geyser. It is the largest in the park when it erupts (up to 400 feet!). However, it doesn’t blow very often or regularly. The last time was in mid April. Still, part of me hoped something might happen.

Porcelain Springs and Steamboat Geyser

I went back to the bikes where I found Brian and Michael. Friend had gone MIA and we thought he may have fallen into a geyser or had an encounter with a moose. Eventually he returned from his walk. Maybe traffic got a little lighter during this time.

Michael and Usher try to find some shade while Friend explores the nearby geysers

We set off with about 30 miles ahead of us. The landscape shifted once again as we followed the Yellowstone River upstream. We saw lots of Bison on the wide open hills. The miles went by quickly for me. We arrived a camp after one more stop. Seeing that we had gone 97.7 miles, we decided to go the little extra distance to hit the century. Totally worth it.

The Yellowstone River

Our campsite tonight is huge—it has almost 300 sites. We are in a tent-only area which is nice since recently we’ve often been the only tents surrounded by RVs. We also get to go to sleep under a very starry sky.

Day 17: Twin Bridges, MT to West Fork, MT

Brian Richardson

Town parks are great places to camp on a bike trip for several reasons: they’re typically in the center of town—close to food and other services—they often have tables for cooking and covered areas to hide from the rain, and they’re free. One of the downsides of camping in a park, however, is that is it can hard to escape noise and light pollution. This morning, we were woken up two hours early by headlights and a car alarm in the otherwise empty parking lot of the Twin Bridges town park. When our usual wake-up time of 6:30 rolled around, we were all rubbing our eyes packing up camp, and we were still yawning for the first few miles of biking.

We pedaled ourselves awake by the time we arrived in Nevada City, an historic Montana mining town. The town consists of fifteen buildings still standing from a gold rush in the 1860s, along with several other historic buildings that were transported here from around the state in the 1950s to create a kind of open air museum.

Breakfast and stretching in Nevada City, MT

Fueled by a mid-morning blueberry muffin, we started up our big climb for the day. Our journey through Montana so far has followed a pattern: parallel a river through a valley, pass over a mountain range to the west, repeat. Last week we left the Lochsa River to pass over the Bitterroot Mountains, then followed the Bitterroot River before traversing the Sapphire and Anaconda Mountains into the Big Hole Valley. Yesterday we climbed the Pioneer Mountains to the Big Hole River, which took us to Twin Bridges. Today, we continued the cycle over the Gravelly Range and up the Madison River. Much like the last few days, this climb was steep and sunny and gifted us with a gorgeous and terrifying view of the next range to come.

Friend and Michael cross over the Gravelly Range

The descent into the Madison River Valley and—our next obstacle—the Madison Range

In the afternoon, with a tailwind behind us, we chugged along up the Madison Valley to a campsite by the river. This puts us less than 40 miles from Yellowstone National Park and the Wyoming border, and solidly in grizzly bear country. We’re happy to have bear vaults in our campsite, where we can lock up our food, toiletries, and other scented items.

Friend cruises along with a tailwind

Bear vaults and sunsets at our West Fork campground

With another big day ahead of us, we’re headed to bed early—as soon as the sun goes down at 9pm. We’re hoping that our primitive campsite will give us some reprieve from car alarms if not from grizzly bears.

Day 16: Jackson, MT to Twin Bridges, MT

Jacob Friend

Mondays mornings are a little easier when you get to wake up under the warm Montana sun for a day of biking. While gathering enough courage to unzip out of our sleeping bags is challenging, we are fortunate to have this be our daily routine for the summer. Montana’s more arid climate and sunny skies have made mornings much more manageable than previous states. I think today was the first time all of us started our ride wearing shorts and no jackets.

Our goal for the morning was to make it 48 miles to Dillon, MT. We were warned by the host of the bike hostel in Jackson that there was nowhere to stop during this 48 mile stretch, so we were intentional to stock up on water and get into a good rhythm to start the day. What’s a better way to get the legs going than listening to some Kid Cudi? Michael recommended we listen to Kid Cudi’s Man On The Moon album which had me reminiscing on my high school days. The good music vibes combined with our steady pedaling cadence allowed us to crank out some mighty morning miles.

The gang rides out of Jackson, MT in the morning sun

There were two passes and a few flat sections separating us from Dillon. Our first pass of the day met us early and was accompanied by a strong headwind. At the top of the Big Hole Pass we were happy to set another elevation record for our trip: 7,400 feet. This came as a surprise to me since the climb wasn’t very long, but it made sense considering that we started the day at a relatively high elevation in Jackson (6,470 feet).

Friend crests Big Hole Pass

While biking down from the pass I was pleasantly surprised to see a bald eagle fly right in front of me onto a telephone pole. I stopped to take a few pictures then met up with the rest of the group to continue our adventure. I have loved the flat sections of Montana because of how far we can see in every direction. Big Sky Country is living up to its name up with vast terrain and diverse wildlife. The wonderful views helped us reach our next pass where we could enjoy a downhill finish to our lunch stop at Dillon. This last pass introduced us to a new section of Rocky Mountains to study and appreciate.

Bald eagle, east of Big Hole Pass

Brian says that our big biking days (like yesterday’s 91-mile day) aren’t as hard on our bodies until the following day. After grocery shopping in town, anyone looking at our lunch table could see that we were trying to recover from war. It’s always interesting to see the meals our group manages to throw together during lunch. Today was no exception. Our spread featured cheeseburgers, sprout and avocado bagel sandwiches, tuna and honey mustard tacos, turkey, hummus and avocado wraps, and many other questionable DIY food concoctions. Lunch is always a great time to laugh at ourselves and lighten the mood after our hard work from the morning.

A typical Bike Loud lunch in Dillon, MT

From Dillon there were only 25 miles remaining in our day to reach our destination at Twin Bridges. Since this part was mostly flat, we made great time getting to town which gifted us time to take the evening slow. I indulged myself with a quick nap on the grass which has quickly become one of my favorite parts of any day. It’s nice to get some me-time where I can listen to the wind, rest my legs, and clear my mind before going through the evening. After my nap I, along with Brian and Michael, rinsed off in the Beaver Head River while cleaning some of our clothes. Usher enjoyed some time at a picnic table and was lucky enough to spot a beaver and otter swimming in the river.

Bike hostel in Twin Bridges, MT (interior not yet open for the season)

Before we could get too comfortable at camp in the town park, dark storm clouds rolled in, shifting our plans for the evening. We originally planned on doing some grocery shopping to wait it out, but our 30 minute pit stop evolved into a 3.5 hour commitment. We took the time to play some more Euchre (Brian and I are 1-1) and befriend the owner of the market. While we were a little bummed to have a delayed bedtime and tricky dinner situation, we were able to enjoy ourselves amidst the uncertainty. We’re pretty good at keeping things light-hearted and for that I am grateful. The rain eventually subsided and now we’re back at the park sleeping in our tents with a tranquil breeze. Goodnight!

Brian and Friend clean up in a game of Euchre while waiting out a storm in Main Street Market

A late dinner and some last-minute journaling in the Twin Bridges town park

Day 15: Hamilton, MT to Jackson, MT

Michael Richardson

Another splendid day of pedaling in the books. Usher tells me that his favorite miles are the ones leading into our rest days but I’ve been loving these post-rest day miles even more. Today they were fueled by last night’s peach cobbler and this morning’s huckleberry oatmeal provided by our favorite cooks—Mike and Billie. We set out at 8am, waved goodbye to our gracious hosts, and gazed into a clear and sunny Montana morning.

Last night’s peach cobbler

We had plenty of room in the shoulder of Highway 93 to observe the countless ranches spanning the Bitterroot Valley, and even a minor headwind couldn’t disrupt our mojo. Mike warned us about a 7 mile section with no shoulder and harsh visibility but we entered the gauntlet right as Sunday service began, meaning we had the road all to ourselves.

For some reason, it is always my turn to blog on the days when we take on a massive climb (e.g., Santiam Pass and White Bird Hill) and today was no different. By the time we arrived at the bottom, we were already at the same elevation as Lolo Pass from a few days ago—just with 2,250 feet still ahead of us. Lost Trail Pass was certainly a force to be reckoned with but we were rewarded with a nice picnic area for lunch at the top. We hit a new elevation record for the trip—7,014 feet above our starting point in Florence—and this was even more evident when Brian’s hot sauce exploded all over him due to the change in pressure. After one more mile and a brief rendezvous with Idaho, we crossed over Chief Joseph Pass and raised the bar once more (7,251’). At this point, we also crossed the Continental Divide, a big milestone for us bikers and the sweat dripping from our handlebars.

Michael climbs up Lost Trail Pass

Brian’s hot sauce acclimatizes to 7,014 feet

We continued along, soaking up the first proper tailwind in several days before stopping at the Big Hole Battlefield visitor center. After biking through much of the traditional Nez Perce land in Idaho, I was glad to take a moment to commemorate this piece of history. We initially planned to spend the night in Wisdom, but after making good time through the valley, the group decided to press on to Jackson where there is a hot spring and biker-friendly hotel. After a quick flat fix and some Snickers ice cream bars, we were on our way. Side note—I just want to say how proud I am of this crew. I have been so impressed by how each of us has stepped up to help the others, and we’re all so self-sufficient and capable. It’s truly a sight to see.

Big Hole National Battlefield

The crew rides through the Big Hole Valley

More good tunes from Friend and a constant view of the Rockies kept our spirits high. We made it to Jackson with several hours of daylight left (granted the sun doesn’t set till about 9:30 here) and made our arrangements at The Bunkhouse Hotel. We’ll be camping in the yard, but still taking full advantage of the showers and twosome toilets. In addition to our elevation record, we completed our longest ride today at 91 miles—and it wasn’t even that bad! I’m itching for our first century whenever that becomes a possibility. Hopefully on a day as beautiful as today.

The Bunkhouse Hotel in Jackson, MT

Day 14: Hamilton, MT

Jacob Usher

Today is our second rest day of the trip. I’m not sure of the exact math, but we are 20% through the ride in my mind. This is a great milestone and I’m so proud of how far we’ve come. It’s also a little scary to me because the days started to fly by at some point last week. A 75 mile day and 4000 feet of climbing is not quite as daunting anymore. Still, we have many days and many challenges ahead!

My favorite day of our week is the one before the rest day. Brian commented in Baker City that rest days are sort of like a Sunday. There is time to relax but usually chores to do and ‘Monday’ right around the corner. No worries because good food and weather left no room for the Sunday blues today!

Friend does organizes his gear for the next few days

We woke up early this morning to the sun rising in Mike and Billie’s backyard. We had enjoyed the stars and perfect weather without rain flys. Down jackets just so happen to block out the sun very effectively. Armed with that knowledge, we went back to sleep.

After a breakfast of huckleberry pancakes, bacon, and scrambled eggs, we went on a walk to run errands. Walking is a great way to shake out our legs after a long week of cycling. We spotted Hamilton’s weekly farmer’s market blocking off the streets. We treated ourselves to different snacks before continuing on our errands. I got lemonade and a kimchi grilled cheese which I may or may not have gotten all over my shirt I just washed.  

The crew hits the the Hamilton farmers market

Kimchi grilled cheese and lemonade from the Hamilton farmers market

I think we walked about 10 miles in Baker City. We walked about 3 in Hamilton before starting to get some flashbacks. Mike generously picked us up from the grocery store and took us to the Coffee Cup Cafe. We met the owner (his aunt) and ate delicious slices of pie.

Brian houses a sandwich (aka an appetizer for pie) at the Coffee Cup Cafe

We have been doing bike cleaning, maintenance, and other tasks to get ready for the upcoming week since lunch. I’ve really enjoyed the afternoon’s slow pace and beautiful weather. Today has had by far the best weather of the trip. Maybe the best weather I’ve seen all year. No clouds, low humidity, 70 degrees, and a light breeze.

Michael performs tent pole surgery in Mike’s garage

This evening we will be cooking dinner over the fire pit and having peach cobbler for dessert.

Dinner in Mike’s backyard

Thank you to Mike and Billie for the hospitality and good luck Mike on your second ride along the Great Divide!

Thanks Mike!

Day 13: Lolo Hot Springs, MT to Hamilton, MT

Brian Richardson

It was another cold morning today, with temperatures in the 30s when we rolled out of Lolo Hot Springs. We descended the final 27 miles of HW 12 along the West Fork Lolo Creek out of the Bitterroot Mountains. At the town of Lolo, the creek we were following joins the Bitterroot River, and HW 12 joins the much busier HW 93. Both river and highway run from north to south in the wide, flat Bitterroot Valley.

Elk graze in the Bitterroot Valley near Lolo, MT

From Lolo, a continuous bike trail parallels HW 93 12 miles north to Missoula and 38 miles south to Hamilton. Our route ultimately takes us south past Hamilton, but we took the out-and-back detour to Missoula to visit the Adventure Cycling Association (ACA) headquarters. The ACA is a non-profit dedicated to empowering and connecting people to travel by bicycle. Among many other great things, they maintain a network of cycling routes around the US. We’re using a combination of several ACA routes for this trip, and navigating using their maps.

The ACA headquarters in Missoula, MT

The complete set of ACA maps, among which we’re using 13

Ten years ago, the first Bike Loud! cross-county ride came through Missoula (the 2015 route coincides with ours from Florence to Yellowstone). One of the ACA staff members showed us a logbook from that year, which included entries from myself, the six other Boy Scouts, and the two adult leaders riding with us at the time.

The 2015 ACA headquarters logbook (the first nine entries are from Bike Loud)

I spent much of the rest of today reflecting on that trip a decade ago, on this year’s trip so far, and on the time in between. First, I am incredibly grateful to have been introduced to bike travel at such a young age. To the adult leaders who made that first trip possible (Ed, Steve, Karl, David, John, and Dean): thank you! I can’t imagine shepherding seven teenagers across the country on bikes, and you probably can’t imagine how much that experience shaped me.

Second, I’m struck by how much has changed in the last ten years. Some of the landscape we’ve ridden through is hardly recognizable to me this time around. For example, thousands of acres of forest in the McKenzie River valley burned in a 2020 wild fire, meaning most of the living trees I saw between Vida and McKenzie Bridge were not there in 2015. People have come and gone too. Pat opened the Spoke’n hostel in Mitchell, and Brian opened the Old School hostel in Baker City. Scott (remember Scott from Dayville on day 5; he’s Doug’s cousin) moved to Dayville from Vida because of the 2020 wildfire.

Bike Loud! and Be Loud! have also changed and grown since 2015. Bike Loud! is now on its fifth cross-country ride and fundraiser, and it has started an annual community bike ride with hundreds of local riders in Chapel Hill. In 2015, the Be Loud! Sophie Foundation was just starting their program to support adolescent and young adult cancer patients. Since then, they have helped over 800 patients receive age-appropriate care.

New growth in the McKenzie River valley after the 2020 wildfire

Local bikers support the Be Loud! Sophie Foundation at the first annual community ride in October, 2024

Third, the one feature of bike travel that stands out to me as constant over time is the kindness of other people. Today was a perfect example of this. At some point in the last week, an extended family member of Usher’s realized that we would be passing through Hamilton, MT, where apparently some even further extended family members lived and wanted to host us at their house. At the end of a long day (89 miles if you read above closely), we arrived at Mike and Billie’s house in Hamilton. I’m still not sure how exactly they’re related to Usher, but they made us all feel like family in their home.

We set up camp in their beautiful backyard, had a spaghetti dinner that couldn’t be beat, and shared stories over Tillamook ice cream. A few years ago, Mike retired from being the post master general in Hamilton and rode the “Great Divide” mountain bike trail from Canada to Mexico. He plans to do it again next year for his 70th birthday.

Usher sets up camp in Mike and Billie’s backyard

Tonight we’re going to bed under a starry Montana sky, with dreams of the huckleberry pancakes and peach cobbler Mike plans to make for us tomorrow.

Note from the editor: Thanks for reading our blog! If there is something you’d like to hear about in a future post, you can comment here or email us at bikeloud2025@gmail.com.

If you’ve enjoyed following the blog, please consider donating to our fundraising campaign. 100% of donations go towards supporting adolescent and young adult cancer patients through the Be Loud! Sophie Foundation.

Day 12: Knife Edge, ID to Lolo Hot Springs, MT

Jacob Friend

Big day yesterday, big day today. Woohoo! Although we didn’t spend as much time in Idaho as we did in Oregon, she has still been quite the beast. Today was our last day in the potato state and to advance to Montana we were tasked with climbing out of the Clearwater Valley and descending the Lolo Pass. With our challenge laid out, we sped through our morning routine and got on our saddles by 6:45 am. About 2 miles into our ride we found a neat bridge and decided to embark on a side quest. The Richardsons like to do handstands in cool places which is pretty dope.

Brian drains the lactic acid from his legs

A large majority of today’s ride followed along the Locsha River (pronounced "lock-saw"). The rough waters in this river make it a prime location for whitewater rafting which was evidenced by the countless trucks passing us by hauling kayaks and rafts. In the past, prior to its discovery by Lewis and Clark, this river was integral in the lives of the Nez Perce indigenous people to catch salmon and navigate the area in search of buffalo. It was really fascinating exploring the river and observing the nearby wildlife.

Michael, Usher, and Friend along the Lochsa River

The squad took a lunch break about 30 miles into the day. While we were very impressed with the natural beauty surrounding us, we were not impressed with the fact that we had 38 more miles of uphill battling. To rejuvenate our vibes, Brian played some bluegrass and country tunes. I enjoy listening to this kind of music while riding because it gives me the feeling that I’m in a chase scene in an old Western-style movie. My favorite song played from today was Little Sadie by Tony Rice Unit which tells the tale of a cold-blooded murder. The music accomplished its job and we eventually arrived at a gas station before our final steep climb. We took a break to stretch, fill up on water, and learn about the Lolo Hot Springs which were waiting for us just beyond the pass.

The group takes a quick break before climbing over Lolo Pass

The last 10 miles of the climb were by far the steepest. At this point the fatigue from the previous day was really starting to set in and we were exhausted. We knew our desperation reached a peak when Michael veered off the road just to eat half a granola bar that Usher dropped on the ground. So far Michael has certainly lived up to his role as the group’s food vacuum. At the top of the pass we were rewarded with a cool visitors center that detailed the history, geography, and wildlife of the Lolo Pass. I got to watch a few scenes of a wolverine documentary. I didn’t even know those were real animals before then. Another exhibit showed us the topography of Eastern Idaho and Western Montana. It was fun retracing the previous ~100 miles we biked on the scaled down 3D mountain range. After enough play time in the visitors center, it was time to dry off from the rainy uphill and prepare to descend.

Topographic map of the Bitterroot Wilderness

Michael drys off in the Lolo Pass visitors center

Finally we could let gravity take over as we flew down the mountain. Unfortunately, our timing was poor because a gnarly rain cloud began dumping rain and hail on us as soon as we hit the descent. However, we were prepared and all 4 of us safely arrived in Montana where we could enjoy the comfort of a hot spring and reflect upon another state we conquered. Idaho, you will be missed. Montana, here we come 😍

The crew enters their third state of the trip

Day 11: White Bird, ID to Knife Edge, ID

Michael Richardson

Wow. What an amazing day—and definitely the boost we needed to push through Idaho. This state has been breathtaking in both a figurative and literal sense. We’re still trying to optimize our wake-up routine and set a new record this morning: 80 minutes from the first alarm to the last butt in the saddle. That’s 25 minutes packing up the tent and sleeping gear, 25 minutes to cook and eat, 15 minutes to use the bathroom, 12 minutes to pack the bike, and 3 minutes to dig forgotten gloves out of the bottom of my pannier. Definitely room for improvement but unless I start sleeping in my bike shorts, it’s gonna be hard to get that under an hour. Time will tell.

After a few wardrobe changes, we hopped back on Old 95 and were greeted with warm sunlight and no traffic. The only signs of life we encountered were the few lingering cow pies and a local cyclist chasing us up the mountain. What made this climb different than our previous ones, aside from us being a little stronger, was the introduction of switchbacks. I love switchbacks. Each twist in the road encircled its own slice of Idaho—not to mention the reassuring grade. Around one turn I watched as three Border Collies herded a group of cattle, and in the next I spotted small critters in the hillside like those puzzles on the back of a cereal box.

One cowboy and three Border Collies herd cattle on White Bird Hill

Eventually I noticed Brian just a few turns ahead of me and the race began—at least from my end. I pedaled hard, no longer distracted by musings, and barely managed to catch him before the top. Usher followed swiftly behind and shouted “that was actually fun the whole time”—and I could not agree more. More switchbacks, please.

Usher eyes up the switchbacks on White Bird Hill

Coming down the backside of White Bird Hill, we had more open asphalt to practice our cornering. Finally, we made it to Grangeville and decided it was time for second breakfast—my favorite meal of the day. Back home in Raleigh, I frequently bike downtown to Big Ed’s for all the omelets and hot cakes I could ever want, so I was pretty excited when the group wanted to stop at Seasons Diner. We desperately needed to refuel after our big morning climb and also prepare for the upcoming sections with limited services. Seasons got the job done and then some.

Seasons Diner in Grangeville, ID

Riding the food high, we zigzagged through bright yellow canola fields and what looked like the Windows XP screensaver, before stumbling upon the long-awaited Kooskia descent. The elevation map makes this hill look like dropping off a cliff, but what it doesn’t warn you about is the 10mph hairpin turn about halfway down. Let’s just say I might need new brake pads sooner than I thought. We stopped in Kooskia to pick up food for the next 48 hours (until we reach the next store), but now my pannier won’t shut all the way. Too much peanut butter.

Canola fields and grassy hills outside Grangeville, ID

One of several hairpin turns on the “Lamb Grade Road” descent into Kooskia, ID

The remainder of the day was spent cruising along the Lochsa river with a nice breeze and good tunes from Friend. We made it to the campground just in time to secure a site and take a sand bath in the water. Tonight we’ll need to hang our food in a tree, away from bears and other intruders, so no midnight snacks. The sky is clear and we’re keeping our tent flies off, so hoping to look at the stars instead.

Friend filters water from the Lochsa River

Brian and Michael work together to hoist two days worth of food out of reach of hungry bears

Day 10: New Meadows, ID to White Bird, ID

Jacob Usher

Note from the editor (Brian): You may have noticed that we don’t always post the blog the day it’s written. This is partly because we don’t always have service where we camp. We’ll keep doing our best to post them as soon as possible.

A big part of our routine each day is packing and unpacking camp. Particularly packing up in the morning since that’s usually when I am grumpiest. After the second day, I reorganized my bags so that my system was mostly complete. Tent and sleeping stuff in the left pannier, clothes and food stuff in the right pannier, and other items I need more often through the day in my handlebar bag that has become a saddle bag. 

I was having a hard time remembering which pannier was which (you’d think it would be easy right?) so I tried to remember ‘right for random, left for tent.’ If you’re paying close attention you realized that that was wrong. I realized at lunch that same day, but now it is easy to remember. At some point my packing became pretty dialed. I know where stuff belongs and packing takes less effort each morning. 

We woke up at 6:15 this morning, electing to skip breakfast to get down the road faster. Our goal for the day was an 85 mile ride with a mega climb at the end of the day to Grangeville. It was barely 40 degrees, wet, and the bathrooms were closed. It was a good morning to be able to pack quickly.

Usher, packed up and ready for the cold

Yesterday was a tough day so we all started pretty quiet, just hoping to make a lot of progress. We passed through Meadows valley when I realized I wasn’t recording for Strava (horrifying). The sun started to come out and we followed the Little Salmon River into a steep winding valley where it rushed over small water falls.

Michael and Friend ride along the Little Salmon River

My fingers and toes were blocks of ice, but the views and easy down hill riding made up for it. I was excited when the trees started to thin because I knew the roads would be dry soon and I might warm up.

The sun peaks out late in the morning

We decided to push on to Riggins before stopping for breakfast. The Little Salmon River gradually became the Salmon River and the trees turned to grass which turned to brown rock. We were all craving a breakfast at a diner but a man doing road work told us that the diner in Riggins closed down just a few weeks ago. Instead we ate breakfast at a nice park along the river. He did, however, recommend Red’s in White Bird as something like ‘the best breakfast I’ve ever had.’ It was also around this time we decided to cut our day short of Grangeville because of some aches and pains. Conveniently this puts us in White Bird for the night and made the day much easier.

Michael pounds some honey during a quick break

As the day went on, we found ourselves sharing the road with the occasional semi-truck. Some had double trailers and we even saw the elusive triple trailer! One had 90 bails of hay on it. We had a wide, nice shoulder for the majority of the day making the traffic not so bad.

We crossed into PST again (as if the time zones hadn’t confused us enough already) and the Salmon River now became the Lower Salmon River. We pushed against a moderate headwind into camp arriving at 4pm Mountain Time or 3pm Pacific. We are staying at a nice campsite tucked beside the river with a great view of the valley.

An early finish gave the group time to play a game of Euchre at camp

Tomorrow we have a mega breakfast and a mega climb waiting for us.

Day 9: Hells Canyon, ID to New Meadows, ID

Brian Richardson

At the end of our ride yesterday, we dropped into Hells Canyon, a section of the Snake River near the Seven Devils Mountains. Given these sinister names, we were prepared to face grueling roads and harrowing conditions. So we were pleasantly surprised to get some smooth riding along the water, shaded by the canyon wall.

This morning, the 2000 ft climb out of Hells Canyon gave us a taste of what it’s named for. Due to a time-zone-change-related mixup, we got off to a late start. The sun was already fully out, and there was no shade to be found on the climb. Even with the relatively mild temperature, we crested the rim of the canyon tired and sweaty and sunburnt. It’s hard to imagine doing this climb later in the summer—as many Trans-America cyclists do—when temperatures in Hells Canyon regularly reach 110 F.

The crew crawls their way out of Hells Canyon

Snake on road near the Snake River

The descent along Pine Creek into Cambridge, ID did not give us much chance to rest. The gully around Pine Creek created a wind tunnel, and, unlike yesterday, the wind’s direction was not in our favor. To manage the headwind, we rode in a tight line, with the person in front “pulling,” or pedaling extra hard to block the wind for the others.

After a nice lunch in Cambridge, we pressed on for another 50 miles and 2000 ft of climbing to our destination of New Meadows. There are days on this trip where I get lost in the joy of biking and hardly keep track of the miles. Today, however, I found myself counting down the mile markers to New Meadows and stopping often to shake out tired legs. We finished the day around 6pm, windburnt and sunburnt and all around beat.

Friend naps in the New Meadows town park after a long day

In New Meadows, we set up camp at the town park, bought groceries, and took some time to call friends and family. At dinner, sitting around a picnic table and macro-dosing spaghetti and Almond Joys, we commiserated about the tough day.

I’m thankful for these three great friends, and thankful that we’re able to laugh about our suffering and keep our chins up for tomorrow.

Usher and Michael fuel up for another big day tomorrow

Day 8: Baker City, OR to Hells Canyon, ID

Jacob Friend

Everyone in Baker City was so kind to us during our two night stay. Together the compassionate community and copious amounts of ice cream helped raise our morale going into our second week on the road. This morning we woke up with renewed spirits and bodies to continue our journey eastward. It was bittersweet saying goodbye to our host Brian, but soon enough we were off to Richland, Oregon.

The crew says goodbye to The Old School bike hostel in Baker City, OR

Oregon has already delivered so many incredible views and lasting memories to kick off our trip. But today really felt like the cherry on top. The 40 mile ride to Richland couldn’t have been smoother. We had a perfect tailwind, long descents, and amazing views of snow-capped mountains all around. This was easily our group’s fastest 40 miles of the trip so far.

The Trans-America Trail, East of Baker City, OR

During our rest day I came across a flyer in Baker City about a 3-day Americana festival happening in Richland with live music and food vendors. So when we arrived in town we made sure to stop by the festival. When we got to the location we quickly realized the festival ended the night before and instead we had just joined the Sunday morning church service. Before we knew it, we were participating in communion with a completely foreign town.

Surprise communion and 3$ breakfast burritos at the Chautauqua Americana music festival in Richland, OR

With our biking gear on, the four of us stuck out like sore thumbs. Once word got around that we were biking across the country, one of the church leaders informed the congregation and then proceeded to deliver a heartfelt prayer wishing us a safe trip. A truly unexpected moment, but we were overwhelmed with love and support from a group of wonderful people. Thank you Richland ❤️

The final 40 miles of the day were certainly not as easy as the first. I think Oregon was sad to see us leave. We fought a relentless headwind for the rest of the day, but the grape juice and wafer from communion was just the boost we needed to persevere. Soon enough we made it to Hells Canyon and biked along the Snake River into Idaho!

Michael rides through Hells Canyon, on the Oregon side of the Snake River

The crew crosses over the river into Idaho

Making it to our second state is a huge milestone for the group. I couldn’t be more proud of the boys and I’m beyond excited to see what Idaho has in store for us. We ended our beautiful Sunday camping beside the beautiful Snake River.

Wood head campground in Hells Canyon, ID

Day 7: Baker City, OR

Michael Richardson

Today marks exactly one week since the start of our trip and is also the first zero-day since we dipped our tires in the Pacific. It feels really good to give the body a break. We’re spending this weekend at a bike hostel in Baker City, tucked inside an old elementary school converted into an art center. The town itself is situated between the Wallowa Mountains to the east and the Elkhorn Mountains to the west, with the Powder River running through downtown toward the Snake River (where we plan to camp tomorrow). It’s given us the perfect home base to refresh our systems and explore the area on this rainy day.

“The Old School” bike hostel in Baker City, OR (try to find our contributions to the stickers on the lockers)

Last night we prepared a family meal together (tacos of course) and indulged in several pints of ice cream to celebrate our first week on the road. After sleeping in, we walked our bikes to The Trailhead Bike Shop for a quick tune-up before continuing on to our real destination, the laundromat. I found it funny that half the group had never been to a laundromat before today, but that’s precisely what this trip is for—new experiences. While our clothes were spinning, I finally had some time to call home and tell my parents that I’m still alive and having fun. Truthfully, it’s been difficult finding a time to step away between one day of biking and the next, but it does make those moments even more meaningful.

Michael gives the taco dinner two thumbs up

After a quick lunch break back at the hostel, we headed out for some more walking—no excuse for not getting 10,000 steps today. We stopped at the Baker Food Co-op which sells a lot of local produce and bulk foods—everything from mung beans to mushroom popcorn. If I lived in Baker City, this would be my favorite store to shop at and I’d be buying oats by the barrel. Further into town, Brian spotted a couple of Surlys parked outside the grocery store and we introduced ourselves to Rob and Irene. They began in Astoria and are also biking the Trans-Am so maybe we will see them on the road! Even though we’re a bit early to the party, I’m hopeful we will meet more bike-tourists to exchange stories and laughs with.

Rob and his Surly Disc Trucker

For dinner, we made pizza bagels with mozzarella, pesto, tomatoes, sliced tofu, and arugula which seemed to be a crowd-pleaser and certainly my favorite meal thus far. For dessert, however, we walked down the hall to attend Pops & Pies, a concert fundraiser to send Baker High School students to choir competitions and festivals. The singing was spectacular and it was nice to sit and appreciate the performance after hearing them practice yesterday. In between acts, students would parade homemade pies down the aisle and the bidding would commence. My mouth was watering as each one passed by, but after a huckleberry pie sold for $1000, I slumped woefully back into my seat.

Brian, the host of The Old School Hostel, auctions off a homemade huckleberry pie for $1,000

Even without huckleberry pie, it’s been a phenomenal recovery day and I’m excited to get back on the road tomorrow. We’re almost done with Oregon and before you know it, we’ll be through Idaho as well so stay tuned.